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Pobeda Peak (7439 m) The grandiose Tien Shan mountain system extends from the ends of the horizon with its glaciers and snowfields. This entire region is illumined by the gold, orange and red of dusk, while Mt. Khan-Tengri towers from on high, like a gigantic faceted ruby stone mounted on a dark turquoise sky" M.Pogrebetskiy,1931. Pobeda peak is the most northern 7000 m. Peak of our planet. It is situated between Severni (Nothern) Inilchek and Juzhniy (Southern) Inilchek in the Tengri Tange mountain range. Pobeda Peak (7439 m) was geographically discovered in 1943, but not successfully climbed until 1956, following tragic ends to many of previous attempts. The first successful climb dates from 1956, when an expedition headed by V. Abalakov reached the summit after a 30-day climb. Abalakov called it Peak Pobeda, or Victory Peak, as a tribute to the Red Army's triumph in the war against the Nazis. In 1958, I. Erokhin's expedition made the first climb via the Chon-Teren glacier. The complete crossing of the massif from east to west was made in 1970 by A. Riabukhin's expedition. This mountain is covered with amounts of ice and its slopes are covered with snow. Strong winds challenges mountaineers and raise snowstorms even in good weather. Experienced mountaineers affirm that the ascent to Pobeda Peak can be compared with conquest if Himalaya's peaks. Pobeda Peak Program (26 day): Day 1 Arrival to Manas International Airport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in hotel.
Day 2 Transfer (460 km, about 8 hours) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (2100 m). Acomodation in two-person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3 To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100m) by helicopter (45 min.). Night in tents.
Day 4 Primary acclimatization in BC.
Day 5 To Victory Peak Camp 1 (4600m).
Day 6 To Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7 Return down to BC.
Day 8 Rest day.
Day 9 To Camp 1 (4600m).
Day 10 To Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 11 To Camp 3 (5800m).
Day 12 Return down to BC.
Days 13-14 Rest days.
Day 15 To Camp 1 (4600m).
Day 16 To Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 17 To Camp 3 (5800m).
Day 18 To Camp 4 (6400m).
Day 19 To Camp 5 (7100m).
Day 20 Summit day: to the top and back down to Camp 5.
Day 21 Descent to Camp 2.
Day 22 Descent to BC.
Days 23-24 Rest/reserve days.
Day 25 Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Issyk-Kul Lake. Accomodation in hotel.
Day 26 Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 27 Flight home. Price of the full package in $ 1100 The price includes:
Necessary visa support. Police (OVIR) registration. Climbing permit. Border zone access permit. Accommodation in the hotel according to the program. Accommodation at the Base Camp 4000 m in tents. Full board meal in the Base Camp. All land transfers according to the program. Helicopter flight in/out Base Camp.
Services of mountain guide and porters are for the additional payment. Conditions: -Climbers ascend the mountains and choose tactics by themselves. -Consultations of mountain guide is available in the Base Camp. -It is necessary to bring the personal mountaineering equipment. -Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment. The price for overweight is EUR 1-2 per kg. Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31. Personal expedition equipment: Snow shovel Hi altitude tents for intermediate camps Sunglasses First-aid Kit Headlamp with extra batteries Cooking equipment Multifuel stove Sun-blocking cream Ice-axe Plastic double boots for snow climbing Crampons Teleskoping sticks Seat harness with locking carabiner Rope (not more than 8 mm) Sleeping bag Sleeping pad
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Pobeda Peak 
