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PROGRAM 2010 The programs for 2010 season are basically the same as for a last season. We try to provide a better service for you, our Hyperbaric Chamber will be available during the month of July at Base Camp, as we could have more security.
We recommend the program for 25 days according to our experience. You should know that bad weather, health condition of members of expedition can be the reason of delay for several days or changing some plans.We will waiting for you. EXTENSIONS New for next year we offer some small packages, travel for three, four or five days that can complement your activities in Kyrgyzstan, or get ready for it, while you would know different parts of the country. Extensions: Cultural and nature. - Around Lake Issik-Kul. 4 days, three nights.
- The ancient city of Osh. 2 nights.
Mountaineering. Expeditions (Before and after) - Uchitiel Peak, 4527 meters. Ala Archa Park. 4 days.
- Korona Peak, 4740 meters. Ala Archa Park. 5 days.
Concretely, we designed the extensions of mountaineering, for good acclimatization and arrive in optimum condition before tackling the major peaks of Lenin Peak, Khan Tengri Peak, or Pobeda.
During this month we will give details of these planning extensions. THE PEAK KHAN TENGRI 7010 m. BY THE CLASSIC ROUTE
THE LORD OF HEAVEN. 
Khan Tengri peak- 7010 m. is the second highest peak in the Tien Shan mountains. It is situated in the border of Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China.
It is one of the five peaks of 7000 meters from the former Soviet Union. With its 7010 meters is seven-thousand northerly of the world, and therefore one of the toughest. The others are the Pobeda 7439m, in the Tien Shan, Communism, the highest Korzhenevskaya 7105m and 7495m, both in the Pamir. They form when achieved win the coveted title of honor of Snow Leopard. Considered by many climbers as one of the ten most beautiful mountain on earth, and therefore worth visiting. It is difficult to describe his vision by words. When the morning shines with its slender silhouette that tone, reddish and gold above the surrounding solid, our eyes are captivated instantly, making it difficult to direct them avoid such a magnificent spectacle of nature. The Tian Shan mountain range was discovered by westerner in 1856, by P. Senyonov, who erroneously stated that the highest peak was the Khan Tengri 6995 m. The mountain overlooking vast grasslands grazed by kyrgyz horsemen, and it descends Muzart glacier of 34 km long and Inelchek of 69 km. The Khan Tengri, also known as the heavenly mountain (with translation of the chinese - Tian Shan) is one of the highest mountains and severe cold of the earth and stands as the second highest elevation of the Tian Shan mountains with prominence over 500 m, after the peak Pobeda or Pobedy - 7439 m. height above the sea level. Some routes are of extrem technical difficulty (for example, the famous road known as Marble ridge on the south side, so named because it consists of pink marble and ice), especially in it's north face, so it remained until 2005 virgin western climbers. Inelchek glacier of 69 km. Long is considered one of the longest alpine glaciers in the world. The discoverer of Khan Tengri, german G. Merzbacher, in the years 1902 and 1903 found on the glacier Inelchek ( north) a miracle of nature. This is a lake, completely close the passage through the glacier, filling from one side to another. Until 2005, only in late summer can pass through the deep waters where the water flows underneath. Showing off on the horizon, the peaks of the Tian Shan mountain range used to enrich the imagination of local people, from which the mythical names with which the villagers called to the mountains: the Tian Shan mountains by chinese means heavenly, while the turkish languages Tengri Tag means ghost or the mountains of Khan Tengri, the lord of heaven. The regular and harmonious pyramid of Khan Tengri is carved with the overlying reddish marble. At sunrise and sunset light golden color and accentuates of this peak it has another local name: Kan-Tau mountain bloody. The latest valuation gives an altitude of 7010 m, which allows to enter to the list of seven-thousand.
The impressive North Face of Khan Tengri, of 2600 vertical meters, has an average gradient of 60 degrees, which is further accentuated in the rocky shallow place. His character has glacier northeast edge, which extends beside his big face east slope that is frequently swept by avalanches coming down from the hanging glacier near the top. His long southeast ridge, the right edge of the south side, with 3000 meters of vertical drop, it remained in 2005 even without climbing to the difficulty of his rock. Therefore, most of the climbers who attempted it opened, eventually diverted to the Marble ridge or Marble (southern edge). On your left is the normal route, the busiest for the mountaineers, on the western ridge, which rises from the hill between the Khan Tengri peak Chapaeva of 6371 m, pass that can be accessed from both north and from the south. North or South? When we propose to climb up this mountain always overcome with the questions to try, "North or south?
The north face is getting a lot of visits for las years, especially after the tragedy of 2005 in the southern route, which killed 11 russian and czech climbers to dislodge a creep Chapaeva Peak, they passed by the famous "funnel" between Camp nº1 and Camp nº2. This accident led to a flow of mountaineers to the north side of Khan Tengri, as its route is not swept away by avalanches, but instead is more technical, and almost all moves through fixed lines, anything, in our view as dangerous as landslides, because sometimes it is a lottery.
It is a decision that should not be taken easy. Without wishing to influence, in August 2008 the famous mountaineer Ramon Portilla, after gaining the summit from the south side, says, "I am very happy to have chosen this route, you can be a bit more exposed, but the beauty of the view of the mountain all the way is shocking. " Remember two options, from the hill of Chapaeva share route.
Route Description: Climbing up begins at Base Camp, located on the left flank of the moraine of the glacier Inelchek (South), at the confluence with the Sviosdochka glacier at 4000 meters altitude. We will go towards the mountain shuning a confusion of crevasses and streams of difficult path. After for about twenty minutes the ground allows us to bring near the glacier for leaving the moraine. The beginning of the season we have difficult way toward the glacier, as we have the reference of the wreckage of crashed helicopter in 2005. The best option inside of glacier is to guide our steps toward the left side of it, thereby avoid to spend a lot of time trying to pass very strong currents of water. Following the left moraine, we arrive to the confluence of the glacier Siemienovskova, which lowers the Khan Tengri, before this area it will establish at Camp nº 1, at 4200 meters. It is easy to find a water in this field and not have to dissolve snow. Turn 90 degrees, we will find multiple cracks up glacier to reach the area where begins the famous funnel, our direction rotated 60 degrees to the right and will face a sort of cascade Kumbu exposed to avalanches and falling rocks detached from the wall of Chapaeva. Needless to say that we must cross this area very early, and try to move as quickly as possible. It is very important to wear a helmet and neck covered with a garment, for a simple small stone felling from 2000 feet up, that can cause us terrible harm. After this distance, we leave to the top of the cirque glacier, arriving to a landing at about 5300 meters, it is Camp nº2, here we have a good view of the ridge that will take us to the summit.
The road to Camp nº3 runs shuning some crack, the route toward to fell is clearly visible. At 5900 meters we will have the opportunity to dig or living a cave of ice, or ride our tents of camping. From Camp nº3, the route continues towards the pass, then climb the western ridge of Khan Tengri. Usually the edge is equipped with fixed ropes. The route is going until the 6,900 meters. There are the dome of snow, as you pass, just turning into a sharp ridge of snow, which leads directly to the summit. Over the western ridge there are landing at 6200, 6400 and 6700 meters. In some of these sites you have the possibility to go at Camp nº 4. The best landing is the one that situated at 6,400 meters. Up to 6700 meters, the route passes through the right side of the western ridge and from this point, continuing with a traverse to the right until you reach a covert way. At the beginning of the covert way stands a rock wall for about 10 meters high. Later, it climbs down the hall and turn right again. On rocky ground to an edge out of snow, which continued until we find a rock wall for about 15 meters. Above, there are the snow dome. The summit is a tripod. We advise you don't stay on top for a long time. There are all the way back by the same route of ascent, by the fixed lines, but this way is not easy. General recommendation, if you did stay on the top at 3 p.m. Is better to turn around, although you have it very close. |
KHAN TENGRI PEAK SOUTH 
