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One of the highest peak of Tien-Shan mountains is Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m.), situated in eastern part of the Khan-Tengri range. Once you take a look at Khan Tengri , you will never forget it. The name first appears in a more then 2000 year old Chinese manuscript, so long before Buddism and Islam started spreading in the region. It means "The Lord of Spirit" ore "The Spirit Mountain". Many famous explorers and mountaineers such as Semionov and Merzbacher tried to reach it. The Ukranian alpinist M. Pogrebetskiy was the first person who succeeded in climbing it (1931) and found the most logical way up to the top, which is now considered the classical route. In 1964 B. Romanov and K. Kuzmin opened the northern rib on the side of Northern Engilchek, on what is called the Marble Rib, along a series of marble chimneys from 6,000 to 7,000 meters altitude. The eastern face was first climbed only in 1988. The most difficult routes from a technical standpoint are on the northern face, which rises up for 2,000 meters. They were opened in 1974 by E. Mislovskiy and B. Studetin. |
KHAN TENGRI PEAK NORTH 
