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Our friend and collaborator Lolo Diez reaches the summit of Everest. |
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From here we appreciate to take the flag of ASIA OUTDOOR, picture and autograph. Cronicle “Lolo” by Manuel Diez. I still can’t belive it: I have just returned from Himalayas, climbed up the highest peak on the planet, I have not set my foot on my earth of Madrid. It all started a few years ago when I climbed up my first peak over 3.000 meters in 2004: Mulhacen. I decided to start some preparation that time and the project of climbing up the highest peaks of each continent, like the great Ramon Portilla looking for discovering other countries and the same time climbing up the 7 summits. And I did it in Aconcagua in 2005, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus in 2007 and Denali in 2008. I had some courses, rising other large mountains around the world, witout skimping on my preparation for a day when I’ll be able to beat me to the summit of Everest Mount.   I went to the summit of Everest on May 19-th, it was the night of my thirtieth birthday. The night was spectacular with a little wind at certain points transforming in blizzard. That night was the culmination of a hard process of climbing up that began on April 4-th in Lukla, Nepal. Everest is not so difficult, one can say that is easier for all infrastructure around it. From the Base Camp all participants who ascended for the south side this season were used all facilities, from fixed ropes to the summit or true sherpa mountaineers to oxygen. Apart from physical difficulties for climbing up we had another obstacles to overcome like loneliness, waiting for almost three weeks for a good weather, and a nasty bronchitis known as “Khumbu Cough”. The ascent was beautiful from Base Camp. First of all, you have to overcome the dangerous Khumbu Waterfall for getting to Camp nº1 where you sleep only one day. From there you pass through the platform of the glacier, known as Valle de Silencio, until you reach Camp nº2, where we spent several days during acclimatization process. The road to Camp nº3 begins without hardness until we reached to the base of Lhotse wall, where we climb up back to the fixed rope to overcome vertical walls of ice. Camp nº3 is situated on the steps of several crevasses and is not safe to sleep there.......more, one of our stores was destroyed during one of the many avalanches that fell daily.Fortunately, nobody suffered any damage.  
The procession started the day when we climbed up to Camp nº4. 100 aspirantes and their sherpas made a real chain from the way. From there and just before reaching the yellow band (for about 7.600meters), I “plug” it wasn’t more oxygen in my lungs....We continued and I found a nice surprise climbing up to eight thousand meters- Mall of Geneva. After this place came drop site and my sherpa Pemba Chotti told me that there were thirty minutes to get to Camp nº4. I removed my oxygen for feel me more stronger man.....what happened? At least it took an hour and a half for going there. Summit day. We left at 9:30 p.m., they were 4-5 hours of 50-60 degree slope up to the place of 8.500 meters known as the balcony. This stretch is me forever. Once on the balcony for a short moment it takes a thin edge that lets the foot of the south summit with starts other large snow ramps another 50-60 degrees interspersed with rock walls that we have to climb up finely. I reached the south summit at 05:30 a.m. (8.750 meters), where I saw the most beautiful sunrise. It seems near the main summit from there. It sees Hillary Step from there. I descend a little for climbing up to the summit. I think, the most difficult stretch is just starting to climb up when you have to go through one rock of about 3 meters completely smooth descending to Camp nº2 (for about 2.400 meters)....fortunately there are one million of stropes. It passes Hillary Step from there, that must be difficult. There is a beautiful fireplace. You haven’t any difficulty for overcome it with fixed rope. 
We went to eternal ramp that you left in “Top of the World” where there is Buddha in a glass case and are countless prayer flags. I take off the oxygen by recommendation of Xavi Arias....... and...I am drunk, with blue face....but it is unique feelin, it is worth. We see the world from above.....Cho Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse seem small. After the one hour we have to descend and now is when I am really afraid...but here I am. |
